Brews & Eats
The perfect pairing

By Darren Willmott

If the start of the year is about abstinence, and spring/summer is about finding a wine to match the warmer weather, autumn is surely about finding the right wine to match your festive foods.

Whether planning a smaller get-together with friends or facing the military-style organisation of co-ordinating the wider family, Christmas meals are a focal point of the season and frequently extend out to a cheese course. A certifiable classic, the words ‘Port and Stilton’ trip off the tongue almost as a single word.  Traditional at Christmas, specially packaged sets are easy to find in the supermarkets at this time of year but it’s worth remembering there are many other wine and cheese combinations to try, not just at Christmas, but the whole year round. So settle down, bring your cheese up to room temperature, and check out the following suggestions. Matching tip: Contrast and Compare: A wine’s natural acidity acts as the counterpoint to the weight and fatty texture of a cheese and, when suitably matched, will enhance the natural flavour.  Like all food/wine matching, your main aim is to avoid one flavour overpowering the other. Hard Cheese – With as much of the moisture removed as possible the flavours of harder cheeses are magnified, even more so as they age.  Pair the cheese with a wine of equal intensity; extra mature or older cheeses will need a fuller flavoured wine, and vice versa for cheeses of a subtler nature. Try Cabernet Sauvignon with Cheddar or Gouda, the dry, grainy tannins and light herb spices will complement the austere and crumbly nature of the cheese.  Nuttier cheese such as Comté will go well with oxidised wines such as Amontillado or Oloroso Sherry. Soft Cheese – The creamy/fatty nature acts just like a sponge, soaking up and magnifying the fruitier flavours of the wine.  In a similar way to a Müller Fruit Corner yoghurt, the dash of pure fruit will expand and create a whole palate of creamy flavour. The soft, fruit-forward style of a Pinot Noir works splendidly with Brie, as does the fruity citric nature of Sauvignon Blanc when paired with Mozzarella. The bubbles and fresh acidity of sparkling wine go particularly well with Camembert and, if pairing Feta, go for a sweeter wine to offset the saltiness. Goat’s Cheese - Not to everyone’s taste, goat’s cheese with Sauvignon Blanc, especially the citric style from the Loire as opposed to the riper new world examples, is a majestic combination. Other whites that work well are Albarino from Spain and Picpoul from France. Blue Cheese - The bold savoury character of blue cheese needs a wine with ‘oomph’ to match it and, although the sweetness of Port is a firm favourite, don’t be afraid to try a sweeter Riesling from Germany or Alsace. If heading away from the more obvious cheese choices, just as with wider food and wine matching, a good rule of thumb is to match wines and cheeses from the same country, so if it’s a creamy/nutty Manchego you want to pair up, look for a Spanish wine. Lastly, if you’re planning on eating a ‘stinky’ cheese don’t go looking for a stinky wine!  Instead contrast the stronger aromas with something subtle and fresh to cut through the heavier notes. Cheers! Read Darren’s blog at vinesight.me