Brews & Eats
REVIEW: Cowley Road's Arbequina

74 Cowley Road, Oxford, 01865 792777.

At first glance R.A. Neville Dispensing Chemist is not the most obvious place to visit on Oxford’s Cowley Road when you are looking for a post-gig feast.

A careful second look reveals that this is actually the home of Arbequina - whose apologetic sign sits above Mr Neville’s in the town’s newly opened tapas restaurant. Inside it’s all benches, hard stools, parquet floors and galvanised metal - so far, so functional. We’ve been given directions to the restaurant by a chef friend of a friend, in much the same way that you might learn about a speakeasy in the days of prohibition America. The word on the street is that this new place has been taken over by some geezer called Rufus Thurston who has made quite a name for himself at the oversubscribed Oli’s Thai. He’s teamed up with Ben Whyles (you know, that guy from the old Door 74 restaurant..?) and now they’re kicking up a tormenta espanol. And as soon as we pile in from the cold outside we are enveloped in a delicious garlic laced fug - this is a good sign, as is the fact that the place is packed with patrons tucking into all manner of stunning looking grub. Don’t ask me what I ate - it was busy, I was enjoying myself too much (I think that’s the general idea) but when I got home I discovered that I had written some notes on the back of my hand - Ox Cheek and Pedro Ximenez. That Ox Cheek - bloody hell - melt in the mouth beef on a bed of cauliflower puree - was simply sublime. Go there and try it. Oh and Pedro Ximinez - sticky sweet port that is beyond compare. Again, go there and try it, I guarantee that you will wake up in the morning with his name written on your hand.. Or possibly some other Spaniard who knows? The atmosphere was cracking, the menu was simple but everything on there - from the Beetroot borani to the Salt cod croquetas - is worth your time. Tell them I sent you. Open lunch, Tues-Sat, noon-3pm; dinner Mon-Sat, 5.30-10.30pm. About £20-25 a head, plus drinks and service.

  • REVIEW: Cowley Road's Arbequina
  • REVIEW: Cowley Road's Arbequina
  • REVIEW: Cowley Road's Arbequina
  • REVIEW: Cowley Road's Arbequina